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Getting back ‘on board’ a youthful pursuit
and riding a wave of renewed self-confidence

July 25, 2009

This past weekend, I did what I always love to do most in summertime – that is, enjoy the salt water of southern California at its warmest, which is usually around 70 degrees. I love to body surf, a skill that is tricky to get the hang of, but that one can get pretty good at it when growing up on the seashore, and one best mastered before getting your first surfboard. This time around, however, I did something absolutely spontaneous and a bit crazy. When I went to Pacific Beach in San Diego I rented a surfboard a nice –a nice long 9’x 8” one.

Now keep in mind that it’s been nearly 35 years since I was last out on a surfboard, having decided to give up the sport on the day I cramped up in a wet suit because the water was a mite too chilly. I thought then that I might be getting too old for surfing. But that time lapse seemed to have done wonders to restore my self- confidence and restore some of the boldness and daring of my youth, because I actually got out on that surfboard -- and amid waves that were high enough to make some network news telecasts.

On my first wave, I even managed a slight turn -- well, OK, a very slight turn, but I cannot tell you the elation of standing up in that wave, which admittedly wasn’t a big one, but definitely moved me at a pace that was positively exhilarating. I felt so empowered, in fact, that I proceeded to catch at least 10 more and even went to the front of the board on a particularly swift wave to hang ten ( I didn't get there and fell trying, but I was beaming nonetheless, having recalled the adage that you never forget how to ride a bike.)

I came away from that excellent day at the beach absolutely convinced that you are never too old to do anything -- absolutely anything. I will never forget the day I opted to hop on a surfboard versus simply going body surfing. And as I write this, I’m planning on repeating the experience tomorrow and the next day. Could it really be happening that I am once again able to relive those halcyon days of my fantastic late teens and early twenties, when I surfed and hung out at the beach without a care in the world? I can only hope – but right now, it sure feels that way.

In fact, recalling that long ago day that I decided to give up on surfing, I am reminded of those lyrics from a Bob Dylan song called My Back Pages: “Ah, but I was so much older then; I’m younger than that now.”

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